S ometimes it's hard to spot a trend in the local restaurant scene. Not so with today's Big Thing. It can be summed up in two words: tapas and wine.

Tapping into that trend in a smoothly harmonious way is the latest wine bar to grace the scene. Grape Expectations, the balconied spot tucked into a narrow red brick building in downtown Plymouth, is such a welcome haven I can easily forgive the pun of the title.

Step inside, and the softly lit room under a two-story ceiling is done in earthy, wine-country colors of sauternes and merlot.

A retail display of wine is set into a cabinet made of knotty aspen wood along one brick wall, with granite-topped tables centered with small bouquets under beaded hanging lamps and track lighting on the other. A stairway leads to more secluded seating on the balcony.

The stainless steel-topped wine bar and its comfortable high-legged stools punctuate the center of the room under chalkboards listing the available wines by the glass, in flights of three 2-ounce servings, and by the bottle.

Reds are served in graceful 20-ounce glasses -- even the 2-ounce pours -- whites in the 14-ounce size. While diners may put together their own flights, the house has a list of them already prepared, from the Anything But Chardonnay flight of Pino Bianco, Fume Blanc and white Meritage ($8.50) to the Big and Powerful Red assortment of Merlot, Chilean carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon ($10).

The menu is designed to be compatible with wine, and it hits exactly the right notes, starting off with a list of tapas from marinated Nicoise, picholine and Moroccan olives to baked Brie topped with brown sugar and walnuts, and a spread of artichoke, spinach and Parmesan.

There is also an assortment of pristinely fresh artisan cheeses, including Pt. Reyes blue and Chenel chevre from California, English cheddar and Dutch gouda, served in multiples of three with crackers and crostinis at $11, or singly at $5-$7.

Much of the menu, in the hands of veteran chef Nina Scott, who does wonders in the tiny kitchen, is meant for sharing.

That's especially true of what is the hands-down favorite so far: the rectangular plate of Serrano ham, rolls of tissue-thin prosciutto, chunks of subtly spicy chorizo from Spain, red peppers that chef Nina roasts herself, shards of Parmesan and triangles of gouda, along with some marinated black and green olives and crunchy ovals of crostini.

It easily serves two, more if several other dishes are ordered. And one that definitely should be is the empanada, a little turnover filled with chicken, sun-dried tomatoes and cheese, or a vegetarian version with tomato, scallions, spinach and peppers, served in multiples of three, each in its crisp little jacket of pastry crust that has a surprising ingredient: cream cheese.

Empanadas are served with a dipping sauce of red pepper aioli, as pretty as it is delicious

The menu is fleshed out with four salads, from spring mix with roasted chevre to arugula and spinach; gourmet pizzas, notably the pear, Gorgonzola and walnut version, one of four; and panini including the combination of manchego cheese, tapenade, Serrano ham and mixed greens, a real treat at $7.

Proprietor Lisa O'Donnell is mulling over whether to add an espresso/cappucino machine to the room. For now, those who don't drink wine may choose from Boylan soda pop, Voss water, coffee or sparkling juices.

What I find especially appealing about this place, open since December, is its refreshing (and smoke-free) unpretentiousness.

You can reach Molly Abraham at (313) 222-1475 or abraham67@ comcast.net. Read her Monday restaurant news column at detnews.com/lifestyle.